PROPAGATING YOUR PLANTS - EASIER THAN YOU THINK

It's easy, really, and can also Save You Money

"Propagating gardening plants is an easy way to fill your garden with your very own favourite beautiful flowers"

Imagine being able to fill your garden or yard with all the gardening plants and flowers you could ever want, just like the flowering bed above, and all for little cost or better still, for absolutely no cost at all.

And then imagine the same for all your patio pots and tubs, hanging baskets, troughs, window boxes and rock gardens. Full of all the most beautiful plants you could ever want and all for little cost, or for absolutely nothing.

Now imagine that all these gardening plants have been grown by your own fair hands, from seed or from cuttings.

Ok, you enjoy your gardening but just think how much more enjoyment you will have when the flowers taking pride of place in your garden have been raised by you from a seed or a cutting.

Raising your own gardening plants from seeds, cuttings or division is known as propagation.

Propagating gardening plants is an easy way to fill your garden with your very own favorite beautiful plants at little cost, or for absolutely no cost at all.

So, have you ever thought of propagating your own plants, but thought it was too difficult and didn't know where or how to start?

Propagating your own gardening plants, when you know how, is a lot easier than you might think. Just read on.............

Don’t believe doing this with your own gardening plants is possible, and for free?

Then consider this. From just one mature fuchsia you can take as many as thirty to fifty cuttings, root them in pots and grow them on to maturity.

And you still have the original fuchsia to enjoy.

It’s not just fuchsias, hebes, geraniums and many others can be treated in the same way.

You can collect and save flower seeds at the end of the flowering season, sow them at the right time and you will have hundreds more gardening plants. Do this year after year and you will definitely be propagating your own plants free for life!

So, now you can see how you can soon fill your garden or yard with all the beautiful plants you could ever want, all at little or no cost and all very easily and quickly too.

Propagating is a gardener's most enjoyable activity.

The satisfaction of seeing the seeds you have sown, germinate, like the tray of seedlings here, and then grow on to maturity is pure bliss.

Or the satisfaction of seeing the cuttings you have taken of your favorite gardening plants take root and grow onto maturity, just like it’s parent, is an absolute joy.

Well That’s All Very Fine But How Is Propagating Your Own Gardening Plants Good For You And The Environment?

"Whatever you need to know about propagating its all here"

It’s a well-known fact that doing something enjoyable that gives you satisfaction, pleasure and a sense of achievement makes you happy. And being happy, so they say, can make you healthier.

It’s also a well-known fact that exercise is good for you and keeps you fit.

Well propagating plants certainly makes you happy because it’s enjoyable, pleasurable and gives you immense satisfaction and a sense of achievement. Propagating gardening plants also gives you gentle exercise.

So, what about the environment?

How is propagating your own gardening plants good for the environment?

Think about the nursery that you buy from, where is your nearest preferred supplier? Five miles away, ten miles away, twenty miles away? Don’t forget it’s a round trip so double it.

Where are the plants grown? Not at the nursery, garden center or store you buy them from, that’s for sure. They are grown at specialised nurseries, which could be in another town, city, state or even in another country.

So how many miles have they travelled just to arrive at the place you buy them from?

Some environmental and carbon footprint, eh?

Now think of all the packaging used to transport them. More valuable natural resources used to produce packaging. And what about the waste left after you have planted them? Where does all that go? Landfills no doubt or incineration, that's more pollution.

By doing your own plant propagating you do away with all the transport mileage, packaging and waste.

And You Can Save Money

Without doubt propagating your own gardening plants will not only be doing you and the environment some good, but you will also be saving yourself some money as well.

In this global nose dive of an economy we now find ourselves living in every penny counts.

We all need to watch our spending. There just is not enough left out of the monthly pay anymore for those little extras.

And yup, our beloved gardening will not escape the shortage of cash.

But if you propagate your own gardening plants just think of how much you can save.

This all depends on the size and type of your garden of course. The bigger your garden, or the more laid to beds and borders instead of grass, the more plants you need to fill them and the more it costs to buy them.

Even if you buy seeds, sow, germinate and grow them on it still costs plenty of hard earned money.

Even a packet of seeds these days is not cheap.

And when you start buying plants, even tiny cuttings, you can easily spend a small fortune.

You could save many pounds, dollars, even hundreds if you need loads of plants.

So it really is worth while, financially, to propagate your own gardening plants.

And for those who may have lost their jobs or are on low incomes will find propagating your own plants extremely useful.

Well, is propagating your own gardening plants good for you and the environment and can you save money? Yes, most definitely!

Now all this propagating of plants is not really difficult and given the right information you will find it quite easy and you can soon be very successful. And most of all it’s extremely enjoyable.

Whether you want to take cuttings, sow seeds, divide, layer or graft we have all the information for you right here.

If you want to propagate gardening plants for spring, summer, autumn ( fall ) or winter, all the information is here.

You can propagate your own plants and flowers, just like these on this greenhouse bench shown here full of trays of seedlings and cuttings, none of which is really difficult.

From annuals, biennials through to perennials, even for inside the house.

What each part of a plant does and what it's for, what they need to grow successfully, how they grow and the best propagating method. It’s all here to help you suceed in propagating your own gardening plants.

And even if you are already into propagating plants that’s fine, because there is a lot of information here that will help you.

From bulb scaling to breaking seed dormancy to describing a plant cell. It’s all here!

Whatever you need to know about propagating its all here.

Our goal is to give you all the right advice and the very best information and assistance you will ever need to be successful at propagating your own gardening plants.

Just take a look at the pictures below and see what you could do in your own garden.

All you see in these beds have been propagated by us, from seed, cuttings or division.

You could do exactly the same in your own garden and yard, quite easy.

This bed includes Lupins, Delphinium, Phlox, Geraniums, Coreopsis, Pansies, Alstroemeria, Monarda, Fuchsia, Allium, Asiatic Lily, Aquilegia, Eremurus, Crocosmia, Potentilla, Campanula, Penstemon and Hemerocallis.

This bed is edged by a home built pergola and includes, on the pergola Clematis, Jasmine and a fragrant Climbing Rose. In the bed, Geranium, Monarda, Coreopsis, Aconitum, Phlox, Pansies, Erodium and Penstemon.

This bed includes Allium, Aquilegia, Delphinium, Penstemon, Coreopsis, Monarda, Lupins, Pansies, Geraniums and Astilbe.

This bed includes Hostas, Aquilegia, Geraniums, Buddleja, Erigeron, Lychnis, Astilbe and Corydalis, the center piece being a wildlife pond.

This is our "secret garden", hidden by a thirty foot spruce, honeysuckle, Clematis and Mahonia. It is entered by walking through home made gates and under a home made pergola.

Growing up the pergola is Clematis, Honeysuckle and a climbing scented rose. Once in to the "secret garden" the beds include Mahonia, Corydallis, geraniums, Griselinia, Elaeagnus, Delphinium, Ferns and five silver birch.

Visitors are naturally drawn to go through the gates and under the pergola, to see what's on the other side.

This "secret garden" is quiet, peacful and fragrant and is lush with plants. It is a haven for for all types of wildlife, many are attracted to the wildlife pond. It's a place where we spend many restful, peacfull and enjoyable hours.

Liven up your house with hanging baskets, troughs, pouches and tubs. All filled with your own home grown plants.

The hanging baskets are planted with Fuchsias, Impatiens and Lobelia.

The troughs are planted with Fuchsias, Geranium and Pansies.

The pouches are planted with Impatiens.

The tubs are planted with Fuchsias, Impatiens, Lobelia, Verbena, Geranium and Pansies.

All of these are sold to friends, neighbours and passers by straight from our front doorstep and turns a nice profit. All these plants have been propagted by us, all for free!

So not only do we liven up our house and enjoy the plants, we also have a nice and easy little earner as well. Best of both worlds.

And you can do exactly the same, propagate and grow your own gardening plants, and if you want to, sell easy to create containers full of lush flowering plants you propagated all yourself, and all for for free, to your friends, family, neighbours and passers by.

GROWING IN SMALL AREAS - MORE TIPS

If you do not have enough space to create a full fledges garden, indoor  growing would be a rewarding experience for you. With the help of hydroponics systems you can easily grow flowers as well as vegetables you desire without worrying about the outdoor setting or soil problems. Even the smallest of balconies, patio gardens or even window boxes can provide an abundance of foods for you to enjoy through hydroponic gardening methods. You can use small container to grow food in areas where it would otherwise be impossible to grow plants. The best containers to use for hydroponic gardening are dark colored plastics to prevent algae growth in the nutrient solution. Dark colored square containers fit together nicely to make the most of your space, and also to block light.
Hydroponic system produces some of the highest quality, fragrant flowers. There are special flavor enhancers used in the hydroponic system, which helps to improve the aroma of flowers. You can grow any kind of flower in your garden. However, zinnia and sunflowers work especially well in a hydroponic garden. To grow roses hydroponically you can go with N.F.T (nutrient film technique). It is the most common hydroponic growing system used in rose plantation. Coco coir is the best growing medium for roses as it enables the roots to breathe and absorb maximum nutrients. There are various sizes of hydroponic set ups, from something quite elaborate to even just a sealed deep tray.
It is important to provide plenty of lights for your indoor flower garden. Hydroponic grow lights come in a variety of types that include full-spectrum fluorescent bulbs, metal halide grow lamps, high pressure sodium lights, and high-intensity LED grow lights. Among them, fluorescent lights and LED are designed to support bigger growth of indoor plants with improved quality of bulbs. These eco-friendly lights give hydroponic growers the facility to select specific light levels and color temperatures to grow the plants in a healthy way. Compact fluorescent lights (CFL) are very useful for growing flower plants that need indirect light. These lamps have soft light intensity compared to others so no need to worry about foliage curling or burning.
Plants grown in an indoor hydroponic garden require less water compared to soil based gardens. This is because the hydroponic system is able to recycle the nutrient solution. Right amount of hydroponic fertilizers and nutrients is very essential for plants growth. You have to understand the nutrient needs of your plants and accordingly provide well-mixed nutrient solution to your plants for healthy blooming.
For your precious flower garden, use rockwool as a growing medium because it provides roots with a good balance of water and oxygen. To create an ideal environment for the plants, indoor system provides manual adjustment of temperature, humidity, amount of light and moisture. Once you've got your plants moved in, you only need to add water and nutrients to keep them growing like wild fire.

ALL ABOUT LAVENDER - A BRIEF HISTORY

Most gardeners will plant their gardens without thinking about any history that may be attached to them, they want a plant to flourish and look beautiful when sitting in their gardens, but there are many plants with history that have been around for centuries.

The Lavender plant for example has been in documented use for over 2,500 years. In ancient times lavender was used for mummification and perfume by the Egyptians, Phoenicians, and peoples of Arabia.

The Romans used lavender oils for bathing, cooking, and scenting the air and most probably gave it the Latin root form which we derive the modern name (either lavere (to wash) or livendula (livid or bluish). In ancient times the flower's soothing ‘tonic' qualities, the insect repellent effects of the strong scent, and the use of the dried plant in smoking mixtures also added to the value of the herb.

Lavender is often mentioned in the Bible, and another ancient Christian reference to lavender involves how it got its scent. Adam and Eve is believed to have taken the plant from the Garden of Eden, but the powerful perfume came later, according to legend, the clothing of baby Jesus bestowed the scent when Mother Mary laid them on a bush to dry.

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Around 600 BC it is thought lavender may have come form the Greek Hyeres Islands into France and is now common in France, Spain, Italy and England. Another common plant and a favourite of the British gardener is the Begonia, beautiful and strong, and is a genus in the flowering plant family Begoniaceae also a perennial. The only other members of the family Begoniaceae are hillebrandia, a genus with single species in the Hawaiian Islands, and the genus Symbegonia which more recently was included in Begonia.

Begonia is the common name as well as the generic name for all members of the genus. The genus name, coined by Charles Plumier, a French patron of botany, honours Michel Begon a former governor of the French colony of Haiti, furthermore begonias are relatively closely related to such food crops as pumpkins, squash, gourds, cucumbers and melons.

Many gardeners around the UK plant the Geranium in pots and containers also in flower beds, and are a common sight in an English garden. The Geranium is a genus of 422 species of flowering annual, biennial, and perennial plants that are commonly known as the cranesbills.

Geraniums will grow in any soil as long as it is not waterlogged. Propagation is by semi-ripe cuttings in summer, by seed or by division in autumn or spring. The flowers have 5 petals and are coloured whit, pink, purple or blue, often with distinctive veining, and the Genus name is derived from the Greek ‘geranos' or ‘geranos', crane. The English name ‘cranesbill' derives from the appearance of the fruit capsule of some of the species. The fruit capsule springs open when ripe and casts the seeds some distance, a distinctive mechanism for seed dispersal.

A spokesman for Blooming Direct located on the Island of Jersey said "go online and check out our selection of all begonia, geranium and lavender plants we do know how popular all these plants are to gardeners in the UK, and how much they want healthy specimens, we offer FREE delivery on all orders to the UK".

COMPOSTING - THE NATURAL WAY TO ADD NUTRIENTS TO SOIL

AS EVERY GARDENER KNOWS, YOU NEED A HEALTHY SOIL TO GROW HEALTHY PLANTS, AND THE BEST WAY TO HAVE THAT HEALTHY SOIL IS TO ADD COMPOST EVERY CHANCE YOU GET !!   HERE'S HOW YOU CAN MAKE YOUR OWN AND KEEP THAT SOIL GROWING WONDERFUL PLANTS. Recipe for homemade compost Compost improves soil texture, fertility, and ability to hold water and air. Here's how to make it. INGREDIENTS. Include grass clippings, dead leaves, and vegetable kitchen waste. Don't add diseased plants, plant parts that contain thorns, weed seedheads, or meat, fat, or bones from the kitchen. Chop or shred everything to speed decomposition. I run my lawn mower over fallen leaves. ALTERNATE LAYERS OF BROWN AND GREEN MATTER. Put down a 3-inch layer of brown matter, such as shredded dead leaves, which contain plenty of carbon. Cover it with an equal layer of green matter, like grass clippings, which contain a lot of nitrogen. If you're short on green matter, sprinkle the brown matter with high-nitrogen fertilizer (such as lawn fertilizer). To speed up decomposition in a new pile, add a few shovelfuls of old compost, which already contains bacteria and fungi. KEEP THE PILE MOIST AND AERATED. Sprinkle the pile with water to keep it about as damp as a wrung-out sponge. Use a spading fork or pitchfork to thoroughly mix the ingredients and aerate the pile. When the compost is ready, its texture will be like that of fine soil. If you'd like more info on composting, check out:

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TIPS ON HYDROPONIC GARDENING

Hydroponic gardening is a great way to reap the benefits of healthy, wholesome food, while avoiding many of the challenges of traditional outdoor gardening. Hydroponic gardens are easy to start and often, the most difficult part of the process is getting things up and running. You will need to purchase appropriate lighting like a HPS ballast or lamp ballast and ensure your container is water-tight and capable of holding the plants you plan to cultivate. You will also want a space for your garden that is away from the daily routine of your family in order to protect the tender seedlings as things begin to bloom. The materials needed for hydroponic gardening are affordable and easy to find, but working with a company you can trust often makes the start-up process easier.

One of the best things about hydroponic gardening is the ability to do it year-round, regardless of the climate in which you live. Hydroponic gardens are protected from the elements and you control the temperature and exposure, so you can grow fresh, healthy vegetables during the dead of winter, no matter where you live. Even produce purchased from the supermarket is not this fresh and nutritious.

Hydroponic vegetables are more nutritious than produce found elsewhere. This is because you are in complete control of the nutrition content of the environment. When you plant seeds in the soil in your backyard, the seeds and plants will be exposed to the contamination and pollution in the soil. Even in raised bed or container gardens where you use fresh, clean soil, your plants will be exposed to pests, animals and contaminated rain and hose water. In a hydroponic garden, you control the nutrients and you have the ability to create the healthiest produce possible.

Bringing hydroponic gardening into your home will make the space feel better, just as plants improve the quality of your living space, so will a full-fledged hydroponic garden. Imagine looking out your window and seeing nothing but gray winter skies and snow-covered fields. Even if your hydroponic garden is small, it offers some greenery during the dead of winter. The brightly colored plants and vegetables will enliven your living space and make you feel good about life. Just as you crave sunlight and warmth in the cold winter months, so will your garden. Together, you can reap the benefits of good health, warmth and growing, even if nothing is happening in your yard or outdoor space.

One reason people choose hydroponic gardening is their concern for survival. Regardless of what happens in the world, you will have access to healthy, affordable foods, right in your own home. If a world crisis occurs and prices of foods soar, you will be growing your own food for just the cost of start-up of the garden. If something occurs in the environment that sacrifices the health of the foods available to you, your hydroponic garden will still provide plenty of great produce. If weather conditions destroy a crop of a particular vegetable, your hydroponic garden will be protected from the elements and you will still be able to enjoy the nutritious benefits of that product.

GARDEN WITHOUT WEEDS !!!!

This article will give you a few good ideas for dealing with weeds in your garden. One of the most frustrating things about gardening is the appearance of weeds. If your flowers and plants are thriving, chances are the weeds are too. So what do you do to get rid of these pesky problems?

The first steep in getting a weed free garden is to get rid of any existing weeds by pulling them out by the roots. Do this as early in the season as possible. It is easier to pull up seedlings than to pull full grown weeds. Watering the ground first may make the process easier. Once the weed is pulled, dispose of it. Do not leave it laying on the ground to release seeds that will cause more weeds to grow. If the weed seems to have a long root, dig it with a spade or gardening knife. Weeds that are growing amidst plants may be loosened by inserting a screwdriver into the ground and loosening the soil around the weed and then just pull it out.

Once the weeds are removed from your garden, cover it with mulch. This will provide ground cover and discourage weeds from growing. A good mulch can be a combination of wood chips, garden compost or straw.

Another method to discourage weed growth is the newspaper method. Lay newspapers on your garden as a ground cover and then you can spread mulch or topsoil on top of it. The good thing about newspaper is that it is cheap and completely biodegradable. Newspaper is also easier to plant in. It rips easily, so it is easy to form small holes to place your flowers in. You can also buy landscape cover at any nursery or major department store. The landscape cover works well also, but it can be a bit of a pain to cut holes in which to plant your flowers. If you have a big area to cover, landscaping cover can become quite expensive.

There are also weed killers on the market that you can use to kill the weeds in your garden. Make sure that you read all instructions carefully and that the weed killer will not harm your existing plants or the neighbor's cat. There are different types of weed killer on the market. Some will kill only the top growth of the weeds and others are designed to kill the weed down to the root.

The best way to get ahead of your weed problem is to thoroughly weed your garden early in the season. Cover it with a few layers of mulch and then keep the weeds under control by weeding at least once a week. Face it, weeds are always going to be around, but you can show them who's the boss!

PESTICIDES TO AVOID IN A BUTTERFLY GARDEN

I like technology. I like modern science. I do not believe that primitive is better. There is a place for human-made chemical formulas in the garden.
However, the natural gardener must be aware that improper application of chemicals can upset the delicate balance of nature in the garden and wipe out habitat in an instant. You do not have to forego modern products, but you must go easy. Read the label. Don't apply above the recommended rate. Be aware of the side effects of whatever you are using.
And it is in the area of "side effects" that I believe we risk going wrong. Let's face it, we are creating man-made habitats here. There is nothing wrong with using man-made products-with restraint- so long as you realize that the products have both seen and unseen consequences.
Butterflies (and caterpillars) are insects. Insecticides such as Dursban, Diazinon and Malathion kill insects. They don't discriminate between harmful and beneficial insects. They are designed to kill insects that come into contact with them. So what to do?
First, get your plants healthy. Use compost. Select plants native to your area. Plant sun-loving plants in the sun. Plant shade-loving plants in the shade. Read Brenda Beust Smith's Saturday column in the Houston Chronicle for a discussion of easy-to-grow "lazy gardener" plants.
Also, keep your head. If leaf-eating insects are nibbling on your plants ask yourself if it really matters. Can't the plant spare a few leaves? Why nuke your garden to kill a few bad guys?
Remember folks, butterflies come from caterpillars. And caterpillars eat leaves. If you kill all the leaf eating caterpillars, where will the butterflies come from?
Here are my rules regarding pesticides:
(1) Less is more. Spray the plant instead of the garden. In fact, spray the part of the plant insects are after instead of the whole plant. And only spray insecticides if you know the insects are there. Preventative spraying of insecticides is not good.
(2) Always try to plant disease and insect resistant plants. Native plants usually meet these requirements.
(3)Read organic gardening books and magazines. They will steer you toward the less harmful products.
(4) Mellow out. Unless you are entering your plant in a contest, so what if something has nibbled some of the leaves.
(5) Be vigilant. Walk your garden. Some critters are like gangs of thugs--they wipe out a plant overnight. Benign neglect does not always work.
(6) Don't exceed the recommended dose. Doubling the strength usually does not help and it may burn the leaves of the very plant you are trying to save. In fact, try using less than the recommended rate.
(7) Make the plant taste bad. Certain sprays work on the principle that a plant that tastes bad to an insect won't be eaten by that insect. The natural gardeners have lots of hints using this approach. But remember that caterpillars need to eat larval plants. Don't get carried away with this technique.
(9) Do not use systemic poisons. These are chemicals that are placed in the ground and taken up by the plant's roots to make the entire plant poisonous. Unfortunately, this makes the plant a killer of both beneficial and harmful insects. It also leads to the increase of insects resistant to the systemic.
(10) Avoid bacillus thuringiensis (BT). This is a powder which contains a bacterial pathogen that kills caterpillars. It is often cited favorably by natural gardeners as an accepted biological control because it doesn't harm most beneficial insects. But it kills caterpillars. Butterfly gardeners need caterpillars to make more butterflies.
(11) Buy a water wand to control spider mites and aphids. Its high pressure spray knocks these critters off the leaves without the use of any chemicals. It is amazingly effective.
(12) If thrips are attacking your roses, spray the insecticide only on the bloom. Also, thrips usually attack white roses. Confine your attack to those roses. This technique will minimize the odds of insecticides drifting into "butterfly areas" of your garden.
(13) Wear protective gear when spraying insecticides. A long sleeved shirt, pants (not shorts), gloves and goggles are a minimum. Many insecticides and fungicides are very harmful to the eyes. Do not spray without eye protection. And wash the clothes separately.
(14) Water your plants before you spray.

WILDFLOWER GARDENING - TRY IT THIS YEAR

Have you secretly been considering turning your high maintenance mixed border into a wildflower garden? It can be hard to resist when seed companies are out there promoting their instant wildflower gardens in a can, sack or roll. I spoke with a handful of gardeners who gave wildflower meadows a try. Their efforts to date have not met with much success.
Many gardeners naively believe you can simply scatter some seeds, ignore the gardening basics,, and wind up with a self-sowing meadow of bluebells and lacecaps. In truth, starting a wildflower garden is often more work than putting in a perennial border and it is not necessarily self-perpetuating.
If these plants are truly wild, (weeds, to most highway maintenance crews), why must they be coddled and coaxed out of the ground?

What is a Wildflower Garden?

According to my local Extension office, wildflowers are species of flowers that have shown themselves to be hardy and self-reproducing, with little attention form the gardener. Although they will grow wild or on their own, they are not necessarily native plants. Wildflower gardens are considered a low cost alternative to high maintenance gardening. Many wildflowers prefer poor soil and neglect, making them ideal for tough to maintain areas of your property. My wildflower garden got little attention, so where did I go wrong?

Preparing for Your Wildflowers

Even a wild look requires some planning and effort. The good news is that most of the effort is in getting it started.

• Chose a site with full to partial sun. If you want the plants to sustain themselves, you had better give them conditions they find agreeable.
•  Weed control is paramount. Weeds are a successful wildflower garden's biggest threat. Of course, only you can determine what is a weed and what is a wildflower, but for the sake of simplicity I would suggest you start your garden with a clean palette and remove all existing vegetation. There are three proven methods of doing this.
  
  1. Weed or remove sod by hand. If you are starting with a small area or if you are planting where healthy grass is growing, this may be your best option.
  2. Solarization is a good way to kill all vegetation, including most seeds. Mow the area to be planted as low as your lawn mower will allow. Water the area well and then cover securely with clear plastic sheeting, leaving it there to bake in the sun for 6 - 8 weeks. This method relies on cooperation from the weather and you will probably still want to remove the dead vegetation before reseeding.
  3. Spraying a broad spectrum herbicide will kill everything within a few weeks. Be careful with herbicides. They don’t discriminate in what they kill and can accidentally drift on a breeze and wipe out garden plants. Again, you will probably want to remove the dead vegetation before reseeding.
• Till the soil shallowly to a depth of about 3 inches, once the existing vegetation is removed. You don't want to uncover and encourage more weeds. In fact, you may want to respray with the herbicide at this point to kill any weed seeds that may have surfaced.
• Rake and level the soil, leaving the grooves left from raking to help hold the seeds and give them contact with the soil.

Planting a Wildflower Garden

• Packaged seed mixes will tell you how large an area they cover. In general, use 4 pounds of seed per acre or 4 oz. per 2,500 sq. ft.
• Most wildflower seeds are very small. Mixing some sand in with the seed mixture will make it easier to spread evenly. Broadcast evenly throughout the area to be planted.
• Rake lightly again after spreading the seed.
• Water the whole area and keep the seeds moist until they are a few inches tall. A light mulching with straw, peat or compost will help retain moisture and keep the birds from eating the meadow. It’s much like starting grass seed.
• Germination should occur in 10 - 21 days and your first blooms should reward you in 5-6 weeks.

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF THOSE VALENTINE FLOWERS !!

Here's some great advice about keeping those beautiul flowers in good shape as long as possible. It helps keep the good feelings alive  longer, too.


Care for Valentine flowers

By Dennis L. Patton, M.S., County Horticulture Agent, K-State Research and Extension/Johnson County

Return to Flowers.

OLATHE, Kan. — The most popular day to give flowers is fast approaching with the arrival of Valentine’s Day on February 14. Many people will be sending that special someone a bouquet of fresh flowers, and, by far, roses are the most popular gift.

Proper care is important for extending the life of fresh flower arrangements. Following are a few guidelines which will make this symbol of love last longer:

Water is vital.
Keep the vase or floral foam soaked with water at all times. Add fresh water daily and use warm water as this aids in uptake. If the water turns cloudy, replace it immediately with fresh water. If possible, re-cut the rose stems every day by removing one to two inches. Use a sharp knife. If at all possible, this cut should be made under water as this allows the stem to draw in water instead of air.

Keep Valentines flowers cool.
Warm temperatures shorten the life of the blooms. Avoid direct sunlight and heating vents. Warm air from ceiling fans will cause the flowers to fade. Appliances like televisions and computers give off heat causing the flowers to dry out.

Floral trick for wilted or droopy flowers
Try this trick if the flowers start to wilt, remove the stem from the arrangement and re-cut the stem. Next, submerge the entire flower in warm water. Leave it in the water for one to two hours. This treatment should perk the flowers up and extend its life for a couple days. This trick works well for cut roses.

Care of flowers received wrapped in paper or a box
If you give or receive loose stems of flowers keep them cool as long as possible before delivering to your sweetheart. Fill a clean vase with water and add flower food from the florist. Follow packet instructions for mixing.

Before placing the stems in the vase remove all foliage that will be below the waterline. Leaves in water promote bacterial growth which decreases life. Re-cutting the stems under water with a sharp knife is recommended before placing in the vase. Follow the same guidelines for arrangements for longer lasting flowers.

Care for potted flowering plants
Potted plants are also a popular gift. Like arrangements, keep them in a cool location and avoid heat drafts or dry air for longer color. Most plants will require even moisture so check the soil daily and water if dry to the touch. Do not let the plants stand in water. This will harm the root system.

Potted flowering plants will last anywhere from a few days in the case of forced bulbs to several weeks. For example, under good conditions, expect azaleas, exacum cyclamen, and kalanchoes to last up to four weeks.

GARDEN TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

Here's an article for all you "almost" gardeenrs, wanting to have a garden that makes you proud !!

Did you ever want to turn your backyard into a garden but then you gave up because you didn't know anything about gardening? You don't have to do that anymore: gardening is actually not as hard as people might think it is. If you know a few basic rules, then you can have your own garden without much effort. The time you need to create a garden is not too long, and it is definitely a good way to relax. The beauty and scent of the blooming flowers will repay you for your effort, you can be sure of that. Here are a few basic gardening tips, that will help you gain that beautiful garden you've always dreamed of.

Flowers grow and bloom, but so do weeds. There can be a lot of unwanted weed among your plants. This is natural, since most weed seeds are carried by the wind and it is impossible to stop their spreading. Weeds are usually stronger than flowers and much more resistant, so they have a bigger chance of survival even in bad conditions. Get rid of weeds in your garden, because they take away the water and the minerals from your flowers. The best way is to rip them out with their roots to make sure that they won't grow back again. You can also use weedkiller products, but avoid using sprays, because they can destroy your flowers as well.

Most of the flowers and plants require certain conditions, otherwise they won't survive or they will be very weak. Water your garden regularly, at least once a week, and more often if it's a very dry hot summer. Deep watering is relevant because that way the roots can absorb much more minerals and the flowers will be more fresh looking and beautiful.

At all times try to avoid the use of chemicals in your garden. Most of the chemicals do more harm than good. For instance if you use a pesticide, it kills the bad insects but the beneficial ones as well. This way you will only destroy the natural balance of the garden. Some chemicals are also harmful for the plants and flowers, and they can be dangerous for humans and pets as well. For all problems there are organic, natural products that you can use instead of the chemicals.

If you want to fertilize your garden, choose fertilizers that are organic. Don't use too much fertilizer, most of the times the soil contains already a lot of minerals that the plants need. The minimal amount of fertilizer is enough to give your flowers extra strength and resistance. Use this regularly, especially if you water your flowers very often. Repeated watering washes away nutrition from the earth and that's why you should add fertilizer to it.

Cutting of dead flowers and leaves will not only make your garden look more beautiful and organized, but it is also beneficial for the plants. Most of the flowers will bloom more if the dead flowers heads are removed. Some perennials will have new flowers only if the dead flower heads are cut, like dahlias and geraniums. Similarly, there are some plants that require their top to be pinched out. This way they will be more bushy and have more flowers. Some of them will grow too high if you don't do this, like fuchsias for instance.

MORE INDOOR GARDENING - HERBS

This is an article I thought was very helpful for all you "indoor gradeners". Fresh herbs year round can't be anything but good, healthy, and fun.

Growing herbs indoors means you will have an all-year-round supply of fresh herbs.
So no matter what the weather is like outside, frost, snow, torrential rain, your indoor herb garden will continuously and happily provide you with fresh herbs ready for when you want them.
And the easiest way to start your indoor herb garden is with readily available herb growing kits.
Herb growing kits are an easy and inexpensive way to start your indoor herb garden.
There are many different types of growing kits available from a simple plastic pot with a packet of herb seeds to over the top kits with self watering, heating and misting functions which also include compost and several different packets of seeds.
But the most common type come with about three ceramic pots, enough compost and three different types of seed. Many come with a stand for the pots and all will have basic instructions.
These are the best type of herb growing kits for getting started.
They are real easy to use and will reliably produce good edible herbs for use in your cooking and food flavouring.
Once you have sown your seeds and they have germinated, usually within around seven days or so, there is very little you need to do.
Just keep them somewhere with good light, a windowsill that receives plenty of sun is ideal, and keep them well watered and give them a fortnightly feed with a soluble plant fertilizer and they will grow away happily just waiting for you to harvest them.
There's lots of herbs you can easily grow indoors,
Thyme
Dill
Tarragon
Basil
Rosemary
Chives
Mint
Parsley
Marjoram
Oreganobr
Sage
Fennel
Borrage
All of these will grow well indoors and they are all ideal for flavouring your food and adding to your cooking.

About this Author

Find out how easy it is to get started in indoor herb gardeing with herb kits at http://www.freegardeningplants.com/herb-growing-kits.html and for more information on indoor herb gardening go to http://www.freegardeningplants.com/indoor-herb-garden.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Cangialosi

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3990385

CONTAINER GARDENING

For all you gardeners who live in a condo or apartment, or just don't have an outside space to grow in, here's a great article for you. Enjoy it, and if you have questions, ask me at: tsmith203@hotmail.com



Colourful containers with beautiful blooming flowers will create an amazing and stunning show anywhere around your home, indoors or out. You can easily enhance your patio or any other area with bright dazzling pots of flowering garden plants grown in containers. Or you can fill your garden troughs and window boxes with beautiful low growing plants or small evergreen shrubs. Use hanging baskets brimming with beautiful trailing flowers such as Fuchsias.
These really do give you a spectacular show. Even if you have a large garden you can extend your container gardening onto patios, or around sheds and garages with pots and tubs filled with lush flowering plants. You can group your pots together to give a stunning effect or in a smaller area just use a single container with one specimen plant that will draw anyone's eye. Containers are so versatile, you can move them around for the best effect or change them to create different moods. As flowers fade just change the plants to ones that are flowering or about to flower, its so easy to have a continuous flowering display throughout the growing seasons. With containers you have so many different choices. You can have containers that compliment the colour of the flowers.
Or you could have them contrasting each other. Either option can give you a special unique display. Its nearly always best to have containers that are similar in colour to each other as it gives the best effect. Use the plants to compliment or contrast with each other. For the best aesthetics its best if there is a tall plant in each container with shorter plants around the edges and perhaps trailing plants hanging over the sides, almost hiding the container. You will have to think about leaf shapes as well. Long broad leaves can act as a back drop to smaller plants with shorter leaves and bright flowers. With containers its so easy to change plants around until you get the effect you want.
Dark green leaves will give a better background effect than light green ones. Especially for bright coloured flowers, which will stand out sharply against the dark green leaves. This doesn't mean to say you cant use light green leaves, if the container is against a dark colour, a dark painted fence or shed for instance, the flowers will stand out against this rather than the leaves. This will give the same effect as using dark green leaves except the light green leaves do not stand out al all. Its always best to try and use plants that flower for long periods, or have plants of a different type ready to replace them as they finish blooming. Or you could grow a container with just one type of plant. A patio tub full of yellow flowering crocus takes a lot of beating in spring.
The choice of grouped plants is absolutely endless, especially in early spring before your beds and borders start to flower. You can use almost anything as a garden container, an old china tea pot or coffee pot or a disused bucket, as long as it will hold compost and is big enough for the type of plants you want to grow in it then it can be used. You could even make your own if you are handy with tools and timber, its real easy to make your own wooden containers. You can of course use commercially available containers which are made from all sorts of different materials. The most common being plastic and terracotta. Terracotta pots are available in all sorts of sizes, shapes, colours and shades. The best ones are glazed on the outside, this helps retain water and gives the pot a somewhat more expensive look.
The cheaper plastic pots and tubs are ideal. They are less likely to be broken than terracotta and they are available in a vast range of sizes and styles and colours. Today's plastic materials are far superior to a few years ago and this is no different for plant containers. They are strong, lightweight but don't look "plasticy" You can personalize plastic pots by decorating them on the outside with paint or stickers. If your are an arty type this gives you great scope of producing your own brand of container, your own personal touch. You can buy saucers to stand your container on which helps retain water, especially in dry weather. They will also prevent unsightly water marks on concrete or wood.
Never ever use garden soil in garden containers. It contains weed seeds and many diseases which would soon multiply in the confines of a container with disastrous effects for your plants. Use a proper potting compost which is especially produced for growing plants in containers. Your plants will thank you for it. A really good place for containers is a porch or veranda where they will make your home more attractive, inviting and welcoming. Stand pots and tubs on your porch or veranda, fit troughs or window boxes to hand rail guards and fit hanging baskets under the roof. This really does change the appearance of your property for the better. It brings it alive and if done well the containers will enhance your home and make all your neighbours envious. You could have containers along each side of your driveway.
This can look really stunning if your driveway is not just a straight line and curves. Just make sure your selection of plants harmonize with each other and enhances the rest of your garden and house décor. For a fabulous night time displays use discrete lighting to highlight the container plants following the outline of your drive. And don't forget all the different types of containers you can have for your indoor plants which not only enhance the plants but, if chosen correctly, will compliment all your décor. There are so many uses for containers in your garden and around the home you could find different uses each and every day.
Just use your imagination and you will be amazed at the difference containers will make. And if you don't get it right first time just move the containers around until they look right and pleasing to your eye. But don't forget plants in containers will be completely dependent on you for water and nutrients. So keep them well watered, especially in dry spells, and give them a weekly shot of a proprietary plant feed.

About this Author

Chris has over thirty years experience in real life down to earth gardening, but especially in propagating all types of gardening plants. You can take advantage of all his knowledge and experience, just visit his free online gardening resource at http://www.freegardeningplants.com/index.html.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/3539785

SOME MORE ABOUT INDOOR GARDENING

    Here's a good article that lists specific plants for all you cold climate folks who can't even think about outside planting yet. Enjoy.

Plants are just as popular as furniture when one is deciding on what to place in his or her home as interiors. This is what spiked the market for plastic plants. However, artificial plants are known to collect dust and could sometimes be subjects for the homeowner's ridicule.

Why not opt for the real thing? Do indoor gardening. Aside from the aesthetic value plants could provide your home with, think of the health benefits - grade school science class has it that plants cleanse the air through utilizing the carbon dioxide and producing more oxygen.

Are you clueless with this kind of gardening? Here is some indispensable information on how to be successful at having a garden that is situated right inside the comforts of your home.

Lighting

One thing you must consider is how the plants will be provided with the necessary light. You have to decide which part of the house you will place your indoor garden. This would help you in deciding which kind of plant you would take care on you indoor garden.

Here are the varieties of plants (usually those that only require medium to low light) that are known to be suitable for indoor gardening:

a. Philodendrons
b. Boston ferns
c. African violets
d. Cyclamens
e. Creeping Fig

Watering

A common mistake most people make in indoor gardening is they tend to over-water the plants, which may lead to harming the roots. Make sure to research on the type of plant you have, because each kind of plant varies on their watering needs.

Potting

Most indoor plants require the use of pots and containers. Make sure that the pot is clean before placing your new plant into it to prevent infection and for a healthy growth of the plant.

Humidity

In indoor gardening, humidity is a big issue. The amount of moisture in the air has effect on the growth of the plants. During mornings, you could spray the plants with water for their much needed moisture.

Fertilization

Just like watering, it depends on the type of indoor plants whether they require constant fertilization or not. If you have achieved to supply your indoor garden with the appropriate amount of light, water and humidity, fertilization may not need much attention.

With these tips in mind, you don't have to settle for plastic decorative plants in your house. Anyone can maintain an indoor paradise with an indoor garden.

Article Copyright By Author. All Rights Reserved Worldwide

YOU CAN PLANT A MYSTICAL GARDEN, TOO !!

Here's some info you're going to love!! Even in cold climates, it's time to start planning the spring garden for the upcoming year, and I've always been overwhelmed at the almost magical beauty of a  "moonlight garden".
   That's a section of your garden that has plants which almost glow in the moonlight and are really a beautiful addition to any garden, large or small. Who said you can't enjoy your garden at night? These plants make it not only possible, but wonderful!! Enjoy.
And, as always, ask me questions, I won't tell you any lies. tsmith203@hotmail.com

Flowers

The flowers you pick have to be visible. This means white flowers and/or gray foliage with darker contrasting foliage to act as a contrast. Some recommendations for white flowers are below. Understand that this is not a comprehensive list but one to get you started.

Also understand that cream flowers and yellow flowers are almost as effective in moonlight gardens because they reflect available light almost as well as white.
Also understand that even though a plant might be listed e.g. begonia, not all of the available begonia varieties are white. You will have to pick white varieties from the listed plants.

Fragrance

A moonlight garden should be a fragrant garden and picking fragrant plants such as white roses would do double duty. Again, you’ll have to be aware that some varieties have powerful fragrances (Brugmansia, Roses) and some come with none (Begonia).

Note that most of the night blooming and fragrant plants are pollinated by moths. Watching these wonderful creatures flit about the moonlight garden is as entertaining as watching bumble bees stagger about under a full load of pollen. The difference is that watching a moth drunk on pollen and nectar is kind of tough to distinguish between one that is straight sober – they always fly kind of funny. Wait until you see your first giant night moth – then you’ll know why you have a moonlight garden.

Moonlight Garden Design

One of the most famous of moonlight gardens is Sissinghurst, designed by Harold Nicholson and planted by Vita Sackville West. What is seldom thought about by those that visit this interesting garden is that Vita would write in the tower overlooking the garden (She was a best selling novelist, poet and gardenwriter in her day.) Her view of the garden was "down".

And it is from this vantage point that she designed her shapes and colour swatches. The garden was not primarily designed to be viewed at ground level and I know more than one garden visitor who has come away from the famous white garden with mixed feelings for its lack of vibrancy during the heat of the day. This moonlight garden, the "White Garden", was designed to be seen at night from above and so it doesn’t look as impressive as its reputation by day. As an aside, I have several of Vita’s books and they are fantastic garden writing by an excellent gardener and writer. Well worth searching out.

Plant List

The following moonlight garden plant lists do not include tropical plants. And unfortunately for those of us living in the north, some of these are among the most fragrant and heavily flowering of the white flowers. For example, for many years I kept a night blooming Cereus in my greenhouses and when it came to bloom, we’d have moonlight garden parties to sip wine, chat and watch the blossoms open to release the most delicious of perfumes. This and many like it are not hardy outdoors outside of the tropics.

Some basic white annuals for moonlight gardening:

•Arctotis - African Daisy, 12-36”, full sun, blooms Blooms June-frost.
•Bacopa- 8” full sun, blooms Blooms June-frost.
•Begonia- 6-8”, part shade-full sun, Blooms Blooms June-frost.
•Cleome- Spider Flower,48”, full sun to part shade, Blooms June-frost.
•Cosmos - 36” full sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Euphorbia -Snow on the Mountain, 24-36”, full sun, Blooms June-frost.
•Eucalyptus- 12-24”, full sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Geranium-12-36”, full sun to ½ day sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Helichrisyum- Licorice Plant, 18”, full sun to part shade, Blooms June-frost.
•Impatiens - 8-24”,shade to part sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Ipomoea- Moonflower, vine to 8’, sun to ½ day sun, July-frost.
•Lobelia - 2-6”, full sun to part shade, Blooms May-August.
•Marigold- 12-18”, full sun to ½ day sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Nasturtium- ‘Alaska’, 4-8”, sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Nicotiana- 12-36”, sun to ½ day sun, Blooms June-frost.
•Osteospermum- 18-24”,full sun to ½ day sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Pansies- 4-8”, sun, August-June.
•Petunias- 4/8”, sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Salvia- 8-24”, sun to part shade, Blooms May-frost.
•Snapdragons- 8/24”, sun to part shade, Blooms May-frost.
•Sunflowers- 24-48”, sun, Blooms June-August.
•Sweet Alyssum - 2-4”, sun to part shade, May-July.
•Vinca Major - Variegated Periwinkle, 24-48”, sun to shade, Blooms May-frost.
•Vinca - Perwinkle, 6-8”, sun to part shade, Blooms May-frost.
•Zinnia- 10-18”, sun to part shade, Blooms May-frost.

Bulbs for Moonlight Gardens

•Acidanthera- 12-18”, sun, two blooms, one in June & one in August.
•Arum italicum - 6”,½ day sun to shade, June-September .
•Calla lilies - 24”, sun to part shade, June-July.
•Narcissus or Daffodils - several white varieties, 12-28”, sun to ½ day sun, March-May.
•Tulips- 8-20”, full sun to ½ day sun, March-June.

Perennials for Moonlight Gardens

Growing instructions for many of these perennials can be found at my perennial garden website at www.gardening-tips-perennials.comNote that some of them are only useful for their foliage or at best the flowers are a minor attraction. Also note that some of these plants are such a pale yellow that they almost qualify as white.

•Anacyclus- Mountain Atlas Daisy, 3”, sun, June-July.
•Anemone– 18-36”, sun to part shade, June-Aug
•Anthemis- 12”, sun, June-July.
•Aquilegia- Columbine, 10-24”, ½ day sun to part shade, April-May.
•Arabis - Rock Cress, 6”, sun, April-May.
•Aruncus dioicus - Goatsbeard, 24-36”, shade, June-September.
•Artemesia- 12-30”, sun, foliage
•Aster divaricatus - Wood Aster, 12-18”, sun to part shade, June.
•Astilbe- False Spirea, 12-36”, part shade to shade, June.
•Astrantia- Masterwort, 24” part shade to shade, June-September.
•Baptisia- 40”, sun to ½ day sun, June.
•Boltonia asteroides - Thousand-flowered Aster, 36-48”, sun to ½ day sun, September.
•Campanula- Canterbury Bells, 24”, sun to ½ day sun, June.
•Cerastium tomentosum - Snow in the Summer, 4-6”, May-June.
•Chrysanthemum superbum - Shasta Daisy, 18-24”, May-June.
•Cimicifuga- Black Cohosh, 40-60”, ½ day sun to shade, June-July.
•Clematis paniculata - Fall Blooming Clematis, sun to ½ day sun, August-September.
•Convallaria- Lily of the Valley, 8”, 1/2day sun to shade, May.
•Delphinium- 24-36”, sun, May-June.
•Dianthus- Pinks, 10/12”, sun to ½ day sun, May-June.
•Dicentra- Bleeding Heart, 24-36”, ½ day sun to shade, May-June.
•Digitalis - Foxglove, 12-36”, sun to part shade, May-June.
•Echinacea- Coneflower, 36”, sun, June-August.
•Filipendula- Meadowsweet, 24”, sun to ½ day sun, July.
•Galium odoratium - Sweet Woodruff, 4/6”, ½ day sun to shade, April-frost.
•Gaura lindheimeri -Wand Flower, 36-48”, sun to ½ day sun, June-August.
•Gypsophila- Baby’s Breath, 36”, sun, June-July.
•Helleborus niger - Christmas Rose, 18-24”, 1/2 day sun to shade, December-February.
•Helleborus orientalis -Lenten Rose, 18-24”,1/2 day sun to shade, February-March.
•Heuchera- 6-12”, part sun to shade, June.
•Hosta- Variety of heights and bloom times, shade to part sun, Blooms May-frost.
•Iberis - Candytuft, 4-6”, full sun to part shade, April-June.
•Iris- 36”, sun to part shade, June, April-August .
•Lamium- 6-12”, ½ day sun to shade, May-June, Blooms May-frost .
•Lavender - 10-24”,sun, June, Blooms June-frost .
•Linaria purpurea - 24-36”, sun to ½ day sun, June.
•Linum alba - Perennial Flax, 18-24”, sun to ½ day sun, May-July
•Lupinus - Lupine, 24-48”, sun to ½ day sun, June.
•Lychnis coronaria - Campion, 24” , sun, June-July.
•Lysimachia- Loosestrife, 36”, sun to part shade, July.
•Malva- Mallow, 36”, sun to ½ day sun, June-July.
•Mazus reptans - 4-6”, sun to ½ day sun, June-July.
•Matricaria- Feaverfew, 12-18”, sun to ½ day sun, June-July.
•Paeonia- peony, 36-48”, sun, June.
•Phlox maculata 36”, sun to ½ day sun, June-August.
•Phlox paniculata - 36”, sun to ½ day sun, June-August.
•Phlox subulata - Creeping Phlox, 2-6”, sun, April-May.
•Physostegia- Obedient Plant, 30”, sun to pard shade, September.
•Polygonatum odoratum ‘variegatum’ - Variegated Solomon’s Seal, 28”, ½ day sun to shade, Blooms May-frost .
•Pulmonaria - Lungwort, 12”, ½ day sun to shade, April-May .
•Santolina- Lavender Cotton, 12-24”, sun, March-September .
•Stachys- Lamb’s Ears, 12”, full sun to ½ day sun, June-July
•Tiarella - Foam Flower, 8-12”, ½ day sun to shade, June.
•Thyme- creeping and variegated, 1-8” respectively, sun, June, Year-round foliage interest.
•Veronica -12-18”, sun, June-July, Blooms June-frost
•Yucca– 36-48”, full sun, Mid-summer blooms


Read more: http://www.beginner-gardening.com/moonlightgardening.html#ixzz1lu59wZtf

CREATING A BUTTERFLY GARDEN

Here's a companion piece to the Hummingbird Garden guide. It's for all of you thinking about spring planting, and who want a lot of butterflies to come and visit.
     Here it is:

Create a Butterfly Garden

Butterflies are some of the most beautiful and interesting creatures on Earth. By planting a butterfly garden with all of the right kinds of plants and flowers that butterflies love to feed on and lay eggs on, you will certainly have a yard full of butterflies throughout the growing season. Butterfly gardens can be any size - a window box, part of your landscaped yard, or even a wild untended area on your property.

Creating a butterfly garden should start with some serious research to learn which kinds of butterflies are native to your area. You can learn that from our article “Butterfly Gardening by Area”. Make a list of all of the different kinds of butterflies you would like to attract, and then learn which flowers and plants they both feed on and lay eggs on. All of the plants will certainly be native to your area and therefore easy to grow with the right conditions and care. Adult butterflies will visit for a longer period if they find plants to lay their eggs on. These are called ‘Host Plants’ and you can read about them in our article on “Butterfly Host Plants.”

Once you have done your research and know which kinds of plants you need, you should learn about the plants and flowers. What do they look like? How tall do they grow? What conditions do they thrive in? Perhaps print small pictures from the internet of each plant and flower so that you can begin to plan your butterfly garden by placing the pictures in the order in which you will want to plant them. In this way you can get a very good estimate of how much room you will need, and what your finished butterfly garden will look like.

Check with a local greenhouse about getting these plants and flowers. Find out which ones are annuals and which are perennials. You may want to plant the annuals in the front of the garden because they will need to be replaced each year. Perennials will come back year after year so these should be near the back of the butterfly garden and left alone to grow and thrive. If your local greenhouse cannot get you the plants you need, check in catalogs that sell bulbs or online and order them. Be sure to learn when and how to best plant them, especially if you must purchase bulbs and start the plants from scratch.

You can add some butterfly garden accessories like a Butterfly House, which has slots the ideal size for keeping birds out while giving butterflies protection from the wind and weather, and are beautiful garden decorations. You could offer an additional nectar source close by to supplement your flowers. By providing both the food and shelter butterflies need you can prolong the butterfly's stay in your garden and draw in others.

Once you have designed and started your butterfly garden, you can be proud that you have made a habitat for butterflies in your own yard, which helps with the conservation of the many species of quickly disappearing butterflies today. You will certainly want to place your favorite outdoor furniture near so that you can enjoy all of your visitors day after day.

Our articles are free for you to copy and distribute. Please give http://www.TheButterflySite.com credit for the article.

HOW TO CREATE A HUMMINGBIRD GARDEN

     Yes, if you want to attract hummingbirds, all you need to do is plant the right things, and they will not only come to it, they'll flock to it. The following is a terrific guide, from a California nursery, Las Pilitas, but the plants can be found, and will grow, in any similar climate.
As always, if you have any questions, just me know at: tsmith203@hotmail.com

How to create a California Hummingbird Garden

Native Plants attract Hummingbirds

I wish I had a work force of hummingbirds to work in the nursery. They could haul pots, collect seeds, take cuttings, weed, answer the phone, deliver plants, protect the place from deer, chipmunks, and squirrels, all at the same time. The humming fights (bird brawls) might be a problem, though. Since hummingbirds have to eat twice their body weight in nectar and insects each day, they’re protective of their good food sources in the garden and will fight aggressively to defend them. Hummingbirds do tend to try the red flowers first but their sugar content is what they really are looking for regardless of color.
"Hummingbirds are capable of exerting strong selection on the nectar rewards of flowers" (Schemke and Bradshaw, PNAS, Oct. 12,1999, vol. 96, n21 11919-11915) The general tendency to frequent red flowers is not because hummingbirds like red flowers, but because bees avoid red flowers and the lack of bees means that there is usually better nectar quantity and quality in red flowers.
These species of hummingbirds have been found in California.
Broad-billed hummingbird, Cynanthus latirostris
Xantus's hummingbird, Hylocharis xantusii
Violet-crowned hummingbird, Amazilia violiceps
Blue-throated hummingbird, Lampornis clemenciae
Ruby-throated hummingbird, Archilochus colubris
Black-chinned Hummingbird- Archilochus alexandri
Anna's hummingbird, Calypte anna
The following are species of concern and have been negatively impacted by the introduction of weeds and destruction of California’s habitat, primarily the coastal sage scrub plant community.
Allen's hummingbird, Selasphorus sasin (SC)
Costa's hummingbird, Calypte costae (SC)
Rufous hummingbird, Selasphorus rufus(SC)

Anna's Hummingbirdon aWinnifred Gilman Sage.

Anna's Hummingbird sticking his tongue out at the camera.

This young Anna Hummingbird was checking out a Salvia Celestial Blue.
Hummingbirds love our Sages.

A Costa Hummingbird working a White Sage.

Salvia clevelandii Alpine Cleveland sage with a young Anna Hummingbird

Hummingbirds prefer the native species (commonly Sambucus, Ceanothus and Arctostaphylos) for nesting. They prefer a mixed diet of nectar from multiple sources for their daily diet. I read an article that showed a correlation between nectar (pollen) proteins and hummingbirds’ immune systems. So, although they can live on bird feeders they probably can not survive on bird feeders (sugar diet) as you’re messing with their immune system and, since there is no pollen in sugar water, their reproductive ability. Basically, the bird feeders are making winos out of proud birds. If they attack you, give them a break, it's the 'Twinkie' syndrome.
They can live for 8 years. They can fly at 40 miles per hour for 500 miles and dive bomb you at 60 miles per hour building up air for a loud CHIRP next to your ear (Typical Anna's Hummingbird). One pulled my hair (that's rather difficult because of the lack there of) as I pruned a manzanita. Another hummingbird chest butted me at 30 mph. Weird to have one of these little guys get so mad (insane?) as to bounce off of your forehead (although he could just be a bad flier). Now don't get dressed in helmet and safety glasses to walk near a Zauschneria. These little birds are small and usually do not do things that will hurt themselves, or you. But they can ming the hum out of you.

Hummingbirds can be very social in the morning before they go out and fight for their flowers.

Since nectar production is about 2-4 mg per flower (Lange, R. S. and P. E. Scott. 1999. Hummingbird and bee pollination of Penstemon pseudospectabilis. Journal of the Torrey Botanical Society 126: 99-106.) they need to consume 50g/day,(http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/wat/wq/refer ence/foodandwater.html#references) or visit between 1000 and 2000 flowers every day. They drink from each flower 2-3 times per day. So your yard needs between 400 and 1000 flowers to support one bird. That sounds ridiculous, but the nursery is supporting at least 20 birds in spring and summer, and 5-10 in winter (bad winters there are a few very cold birds out there, hustling coal.)
The ginger bread houses with frosting gardens are sterile to the wildlife. There is no wildlife value there. No hummingbirds flying around. There might be a few mangy, dispirited butterflies that were too weak to fly away, or a few wino hummingbirds hanging with the gang of English sparrows, starlings, jays and house finches. But there is not a colony of native wildlife nesting and breeding (uh-oh). Hummingbirds may come to those types of yards but they may just visit a few alien flowers and leave, or stay but be unable to breed, or be at risk for disease. They have certain types of plants that they use during certain times of the year. picture of a hummingbird on a manzanita.

Anna's Hummingbird visiting a Hummingbird Sage

Black-chinned Hummingbird -Archilochus alexandri

Native Hummingbird Plants for your Garden

Click on the plant links to learn more about these plants and get ordering information
(By the approximate month they flower.)
January through March
Ribes species, Currants andGooseberries Almost all Currants and Gooseberries are used by hummingbirds. Ribes can flower anytime from October through March.
Keckiella antirrhinoides, Yellow bush snapdragon Is a garden shrub with fragrant yellow Penstemon flowers, March – May.
Opuntia species, Cacti Yes, cacti are used by the hummingbirds.
Arctostaphylos species, Manzanita The manzanitas can flower from February (‘Austin Griffin') through May, sometimes even June (‘Howard McMinn').
Diplacus species, Monkey flowers of all colors are used by hummingbirds, but they really prefer the red ones, Diplacus puniceus, Diplacus rutilus and Mimulus cardinalis. Monkey flowers are a showy addition to a hummingbird garden.
Dudleya species, Live Forever is an excellent rock wall plant. And as it is a succulent it is very drought tolerant. It naturally occurs in rock outcroppings.
Erysimum species, Wallflowers are randomly worked in an opportunistic way. Hummingbirds prefer manzanitas but like to add a little spice to their life with a tasty treat from a wallflower.
Symphoricarpos species, Snowberry. Many of the snowberries flower April through July. The hummingbirds are not crazy for the flowers, but will live on them when more tasty flowers in the garden are not available.
Penstemon species flower from April through July. Although they are commonly blue, they can be yellow, red, pink, and orange another show stopper in the garden.
June-August
Penstemon species, most notably Scarlet bugler, Penstemon centranthifolius, a hummingbirds dream.
Keckiella cordifolia, Heart-Leafed Penstemon
Lobelia species are used by the hummingbirds in mid-summer. The small blue flowers of Lobelia dunnii are used a little, the Large flowers of Lobelia cardinalis are used a lot.
Mimulus cardinalis, the scarlet monkey flower flowers most of the summer and is guarded by the birds.
Stachys species, Magenta Butterfly Flower, the hedge nettles are used as a side dish as the hummingbirds protect the Mimulus and Diplacus species. Put the Stachys in a moist part shade section of the garden.
Cirsium occidentale, Red thistle This flowers is very popular with hummingbirds. as well as monarch butterflies.
Comarostaphylis diversifolia Summer Holly, we're almost always out of this one, and it is difficult, but if you live in Coastal Areas of Southern California it is a great summer flowering bush for hummingbirds.
Antirrhinum multiflorum, Multi-flowered Snapdragon with it's purple and yellow flowers are used as the hummingbirds migrate through as a filling station.
Aquilegia species, California columbines are aggressively used by the hummingbirds. Our columbines are largely hummingbird pollinated whereas many of the non-native ones are wind pollinated.
Lonicera species, Honeysuckles are used in varying degrees. The Lonicera hispidula is the preferred flower and it survives well in most gardens.
Salvia species, Sages, such as Salvia'Pozo Blue', Salvia mellifera, Salvia brandegei, Salvia clevelandii are all well liked by hummingbirds. And not to forget hummingbird sage, Salvia spathacea. A sage garden can be an experience when eight or ten hummingbirds fight continuously around you.
Lilium species, the California lilies almost swallow the birds when they work the flowers, but the orange forms are used regularly. Lilium pardalinumLilium humboldtii are both happy to help out the hummingbirds. (We can't show you a good picture of the hummingbird in the flower as all you'll see if the tail.)
September- December
Just plant, Zauschneria species, California fuchsia everywhere in your garden. The California fuchsias can flower from July through December. They flower and flower, trim off the old flowers, and they flower more. They are excellent in rock walls. California fuchsias can tolerate garden water as well as being very drought tolerant. These flowers come in white, pink, and red with gray or green foliage. The vary in with from a couple of inches tall to a couple of feet.

Anna's Hummingbird on a Black Sage

Rufous HummingbirdSelasphorus rufus

The male Anna's Hummingbird can be colorful characters.

This little Rufous Hummingbird was protecting a native Golden Currant.

Lemon Lilly is being checked out by a Anna Hummingbird

Anna's Hummingbird on Bladder Pod

A customer sent this photo along for you to enjoy. 1-2 week old hummingbirds.

A Hummingbird checking out Evening Primrose. The flower is almost closed because it's mid-day.

Hummingbirds love the Salvias. Here is Rose Sage.

Anna's Hummingbird on Diplacus longiflorus Conejo monkey flower. The hummingbirds like monkey flowers.

Heart Leaved Penstemon with a clever little hummingbird.

Monardella macrantha with a cute and clever Hummingbird.

Arctostaphylos Baby Bear Manzanita Bush with an Anna Hummingbird. All wildlife seem to love this plant, including humans.

Arctostaphylos refugioensis Refugio Manzanita with a young Anna Hummingbird.

Arctostaphylos manzanita_x_densiflora Austin Griffiths Manzanita flowers early, has a gob of flowers that small birds eat, all the hummingbirds and butterflies relish, and native bees buzz about.

Zauschneria septentrionalis Mattole River with an Anna's Hummingbird

Zauschneria latifolia johnstonii with an Anna's Hummingbird

Zauschneria californica Bert's Bluff with, you know by now, Anna's Hummingbird

Showy Penstemon

Grinell's Northern Penstemon. Humming birds like Penstemons.

Scarlet Bugler with a Costa Hummingbird

Anna's Hummingbird on Golden Currant

Anna's Hummingbird on Fuchsia-Flowering Gooseberry

Anna's Hummingbird on Chaparral Pea

Anna's Hummingbird on Nevin's Barberry

Anna's Hummingbird on Red Thistle

Desert Willow

Anna's Hummingbird on Showy Milkweed

Pitcher Sages are liked by Hummingbirds

Anna's Hummingbird on Compact White Sage

Mexican Manzanita. grows from above San Francisco to Baja to Texas.

Sentinel Manzanita is loved by butterflies and hummingbirds alike.

Louis Edmunds manzanita a delightful mix of grey. pink and red, and an Anna Hummingbird.

Arctostaphylos silvicola Ghostly Manzanita grows in the Santa Cruz mountains, does fine in most of California as long as the soil is sandy or sandy loam.

Keckiella antirrhinoides, Yellow Bush Penstemon, was planted originally in the sun. After 20 years it is in the shade of a coast live oak that has doubled in size. Although the plant is leaning away from the oak, it has grown well in the garden with no irrigation.

Cardinal Flower with an Anna's Hummingbird

Desert Penstemon, Rosy Desert Beardtongue, Pink Showy Penstemon and Arizona Penstemon makes for happy Hummingbirds.

This young Anna's Hummingbird was working one of the last flowers of Salvia Pozo Blue in August.

Movie: Anna Hummingbird on Pink Zauschneria

Takes a minute or so to load. The Blue Jay is putting in his two squawks.

 

Authors

Bert Wilson